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Ekopoly Premium vs Ekocrylic

Posted: Friday, January 25, 2013 9:24 PM Quote
I need to order some more paint and could use some input. Is there any significant advantage of using the Ekocrylic for my non-fabric parts vs the Ekopoly Premium?

I've really been battling the orange peel with the acrylic... it's not horrid, but I'm REALLY pouring the paint on the part to get it to flow out.  

I'm thinning just a touch more than recommended (i.e if "part A/3" suggests 8 oz, I use 9 oz).
Booth temp is 73 or so, 30-35% humidity
Tekna Prolite, 1.2mm, the "wet" cap.

I have much better luck & better "feel" with the Ekopoly premium, mixed per the can lid, though it does seem to have a touch less gloss than the acrylic.

Not sure if I should change technique, ratios, or use the 'poly for everything.

Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 9:45 PM Quote
The recommended division factor for the water on the can is just a starting point. You will find that different colors are different viscosities to start with. The normal viscosity range of the mixed ready to shoot paint should be somewhere between 19-23 seconds. Also the paint will become slight less viscous as it sits in the gun and will drop a second or two in viscosity after about 10 min depending on how well you mixed everything up and the atmospheric conditions.

Always practice/experiment on parts you can throw away so that you don't have to sand and re-paint your airplane parts.

Both paints will spray out the same but EPP will tend to flow just a tiny bit more. I my self prefer to have a little more thinned out paint so I use a little bit more water. I will divide part A by 2.8 or 2.75 to get about 19 seconds on the viscosity cup. Orange peel is going to be mostly related to viscosity and technique. Yes you will always have a little bit of orange peel. If you look at the finish on your car and you will see about what to expect from a right out of the paint gun look. One way to reduce the amount of orange peel is to make sure the tack coats are very smooth looking. If you have a semi dry and lumpy textured tack coat then the wet coat will also be slightly textured. You can fairly easily buff the shine back by hand into the EkoPoly Premium and EkoCrylic if you put it on a bit too heavy and it looks like it's lost some gloss. It's just a little haze on the surface from the heavy wet coat drying. Some very light buffing compound or cleaner polish wax will bring the shine out. Fabric parts will always appear to have a little orange peel in them because the weave of the fabric causes a textured appearance even when it feels smooth to the touch.

One thing to look at is are you getting different results on parts painted vertically vs' horizontally? I see many people change their spray techniques between the two situations.  

I highly recommend waxing a paint job before putting the aircraft into service.

Posted: Friday, February 8, 2013 8:26 PM Quote
Something I've found that others may benefit from...
The Ekopoly Premium seems to flow out for a long, long time after you shoot it (that's good!!!).  On my first few parts, I kept throwing paint on until the wet coat was like glass; going over the minor orangepeel and sorta dry looking areas again and again until glassy.  I was rewarded with runs!  the next few attempts, I decided to just let some minor dry/'peely areas dry & I'd recoat later... but these areas flowed out during the cure to a nice smooth finish.

So keep this in mind when you're contemplating hitting an area again & again but are on the verge of too much paint already.
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2013 1:20 AM Quote
When you shoot the paint to a wet gloss it looks awesome for a few minutes.... then as it levels and starts to flow it actually looks textured and kinda crappy. Then when it fully dries after about 12 hours it looks Awesome again. If you come back and see a kinda ugly looking surface texture avoid the temptation to add more paint. IF you want to put a second wet coat on wait about 45-60 min and then come back with a fast light fog coat before laying the second full wet coat. Or you can let it fully cure and shoot a second fog/wet coat the next day with out scuff sanding the previous one. Just make sure to wipe the dry cured surface with Isopropyl alcohol before shooting more paint. If you let it sit a few days then scuff sand before re-painting.

Again, always practice on scrap materials before painting your airplane parts.

Posted: Sunday, September 1, 2013 3:29 PM Quote
What are the basic settings you would use on a Devilbiss Finishline 3 with 1.5mm tip for 'fog coat wet coat' technique?

Air PSI, 20-21?
Fluid control - I was thinking 1 turn for fog then 1.25 for the wet?

Cheers, Laurie
Jabiru UL450
Posted: Monday, September 2, 2013 1:05 PM Quote
The 1.5 is too big really for the recommended viscosity of our paint. I would find a 1.3 tip if you can and use maybe 1 turn open for the fog coat and 1.25 to 1.5 for the wet coat depending on your technique.

I have found when you charge the hose to the paint gun with a very stable regulated 70-75 psi and adjust the air control valve on the bottom of the gun to indicate around 21-24 indicated psi with the trigger pulled I seem to get the best atomization.

Your results may vary and there is no one size fits all setting with paint guns. Practice and testing is highly recommended

The only product we have that I would use the 1.5 nozzle on is the EkoPoxy primer