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Masking registration lettering

Posted: Thursday, December 20, 2012 7:24 PM Quote
I'm restoring an antique European airplane and am going to be painting on "false" European registration markings in large lettering down the sides. The size is large and font is unique so I think my only option is to mask off all of the lettering (i.e. no semi-custom stencils will do) and I'm wondering what suggestions people might have for the best masking products to use that would give me the best straight lines, smooth curves, and no bleeding at the edges.
Posted: Friday, December 21, 2012 9:37 AM Quote
We sell and use the blue 3M vinyl "fine line" tape which is flexible, sticky, and easy to use when masking off for trim colors. It is available from 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" Do not use paper masking tape. Wipe the surface with Isopropyl alcohol first. Then lay out the tape. To make removal of the mask easier use the green 3m paper masking tape up to within 1/4" of where you want to mask off and then lay your blue vinyl tape over the top of the green paper tape. This way when you pull the blue vinyl tape off 30 min after painting the trim color all you are removing is the skinny blue vinyl tape. Make sure to pull the tap 180 degrees back onto it's self moving slowly and at a slight angle over the color you just shot. You want to roll the tape off smoothly not pull it straight up 90 deg to the surface. Before you shoot the color go over the edge of the blue vinyl tape many many times with your fingernail to make sure its down tight. Where the tape goes over pinked edges or any bumps you can make it conform better by heating it up with a hair dryer and pushing it into the voids. You should spend a good deal of time making sure the parting edge of the tape is perfect so that you do not need to worry about bleed through. Also It is a good idea to scuff the area you are going to paint with red scotch-brite before you paint the trim color. Make sure to remove ALL sanding residue.

Posted: Friday, December 21, 2012 10:52 AM Quote
Jason, thanks much for the advice. It did trigger some other questions though. You mentioned the tape should be pulled off 30 minutes after painting the trim color. Does this mean no later than or no sooner than 30 minutes? Actually, what I really need to know is do I spray my trim color right over the primary color and how many coats of trim color might I expect to have to do? And if I pull the tape off after 30 minutes, is that after the final coat or each coat (hopefully not the latter). The colors I'm going with are silver for the overall primary color and I will have some trim in black, red, and white. Will the black, red, and white trim colors cover the silver adequately?
Posted: Friday, December 21, 2012 5:19 PM Quote
It's best to pull the tape before the paint dries. If you can't do that then try to remove it as soon as you can. Not a good idea to leave tape on new paint for 3-4 days. Just make sure you scuff sand and clean the surface before you shoot paint. DO NOT leave any sanding residue behind. Any sanding residue left on the surface will sacrifice adhesion of the paint to the substrate.

You will have to test color coverage over each color you wish to spray. Yes it will change slightly than how it would look over white but you need to test this first and then decide what kind of sequence you want to paint. Some areas where you want to put red over black you should go back with a light coat of white primer first then spray the red. You need about 2-4 hours between shooting EkoPrime and EkoPoly. If you are in a hurry you can spray a light coat of white EkoPoly-go clean the gun and come right back with the red EkoPoly

Black red and white will cover over the silver just fine. Red will be slightly darker since red is a translucent color. Black and White cover very well.

If your trim colors overlap each other then black over red or white, red over white.

Posted: Monday, April 1, 2013 12:26 PM Quote
Hi Jason
How long can masking/fine line tape be on the Ekopoly surface(prior to paint) before it becomes a problem? My color scheme and schedule make it nearly impossible for me to mask, prep, and paint all in one day.  It will more likely be 3-4 days total.  The good news is that the temperature is very stable in my workspace.

Also, I am using some low-tack vinyl masks for the numbers.  They are "negative" masks, meaning I am masking the N-number area itself, not the surrounding areas so peeling the mask in the ideal way (over itself, angled a bit toward the paint) will not be difficult/impossible.  given this, am I better off to let the n-number areas dry completely before removing the mask?  Also, do you have any idea if these types of masks have a similiar or different timeframe as masking/fine line tape with regards to leaving residue/lifting issues?

Posted: Monday, April 1, 2013 7:08 PM Quote
Give the base color a few days to cure. Then when you remove the masking and if it leaves a little residue you can wipe it off with alcohol. The downside to leaving tapes on till the paint dries is that you get a pronounced edge between the 2 colors. Try very hard to not leave tape on new paint for more than 24hrs. Masking tape can be pretty bad sometimes. Remove slowly and never ever yank tape off.

Posted: Sunday, August 25, 2013 6:57 PM Quote
Hello Jason,

The Pitts special old paint remover via air compressor trick here. (Great Idea).  
1. Can I add vinyl lettering to the paint?

2. Can I add lvinyl to my eco poly metallic paint. I have a vinyl cutter and want to make the starbursts and american theme out of vinyl? I want to do the numbers and side strips too.
or if I paint the starburst stripes can I add the pattern of stars within the  stripes. I would much rather do the stripes in vinyl.

What are your thoughts.
Posted: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:46 AM Quote
Vinyl works great just be sure to get the good stuff!  We have even had customers get white vinyl and paint it with EkoPoly Premium and sent it through the sign cutter to get the design they wanted then stuck it on the airplane