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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 9:16 AM Quote
Hi Jason,
    I will be applying EkoPoly soon.  I have watched the company videos as well as yours on You-Tube.  There is one video where you are fog coating.  Is this different from the four pass system in the other videos?
Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:44 AM Quote
More than one way to skin a cat

Two very important rules with our waterborne paint

#1 The surface must be clean and dry. ALL sanding residue and contamination needs to be removed.

#2 The initial sprayed coat should be a dry fog coat- atomization is the key, do not let the surface become wet and glossy looking. You want the highest density of the smallest droplet size possible on the surface. Waterborne paint has a high surface tension so the better you atomize it the better it adheres to the surface

We have found that you are much less likely to get a run or solvent popping and that you will have a much more even color saturation and that the metallics will be much more even if you fog to full color saturation, then when it's properly tacked up you spray a wet coat. Fogging it to full color before spraying out a heavier wet coat significantly reduces the problems that a lot of new painters get into.

We strongly recommend that you spray out a test sample NOT on an airplane part first to make sure you have everything working like you want.

Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 3:54 PM Quote
Hi Jason,
    I have been working at  unlearning how to paint.  Having built my first plane 20+ years ago (dope) and painted cars with acrylic enamel, I am following the instructions for your product closely.  I have done the first pair of crosscoats of EkoFill and am sanding right now with no surprises.  
    Is the "fog" coat a continuous process until you get color saturation prior to the wet coat, or do you do it in stages waiting for the right tack between passes?  The small sample sheets get covered very fast compared to large parts.
Posted: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 2:21 PM Quote
When spraying a fog coat of paint there is no tack time issues. A fog coat should never become wet or shiny looking. When spraying a fog coat if you see that the surface is beginning to gloss up you are putting it on too heavy. If you took a Cub wing and fogged it to color saturation maintaining the DRY smooth look to the surface with the texture of about 800-1000 grit sand paper in one continuous application you can come back at any time and fog on more paint if you see a blotchy or poorly color saturated area. No need to let the surface tac up if you are going to re-fog coat it. Depending on your technique, equipment, and the temp/humidify of the paint booth you may want to do 2 light fog coats. If you feel that you are getting great color saturation and maintaining the dry look then one fog coat would be sufficient.

The wet coat needs to be applied to a tacky surface. After fog coating a large surface if you feel that the paint has over tacked and started to dry back at the starting point then all you need to do is throw a fast light fog coat on the surface to get your tack back. You don't need color you need tack so hold the gun back and move it fast so that you are misting a light sticky fog coat back on the surface making it sticky. You may quickly fog out 3-4 feet first then come right back and start laying the wet coat. Think of it as the 2 steps forward 1 step backwards pushing a fog coat out in front of the area you are spraying the wet coat.

The wet coat can be applied 5-10 minutes after the fog coat typically with out any need to throw a quick light fog coat on to get your tack back.

To find out what works best for your technique and equipment spray out a test panel hanging vertically which will show you a run. Play with tack times to find out what does not work first. Always push your test to failure and then back up from there.

Posted: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:41 PM Quote
    I finally got to spray a test panel.  After watching the DVD and your video repeated times it went like I have done it many times before.  
    Results were fine but I have a couple of questions.  Part A was very viscous, like honey.  It did not appear like that on the DVD.  Since I was only mixing a small batch, I was not able to use my viscosity cup.  I used the standard ratio of water but I think the paint was too thick which I think was responsible for some light orange peel.  I thinned it some more before the last coat and the result was very good.  Tomorrow I will see if it dried!
    Is it normal for the part A to be that thick?
Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 12:06 PM Quote
Many things effect viscosity. Different colors have different viscosity due to the tints used to make those colors. Temperature also effects viscosity, If the lid is not sealed tightly and the paint begins to dry in the can it will thicken up. The key is to reduce as needed so that your equipment will spray it out with a very fine atomization. You will always use a 3:1 ratio of paint to catalyst but you may use anywhere from 3/4 to 1 1/2 parts water to get the viscosity that works best for your application.

If part "A" seems abnormally thick like yogurt and does not pour like paint should when you open the can give us a call. That is not normal

Posted: Monday, November 26, 2012 9:24 PM Quote
Hi Jason,
    I finally started spraying the Ekopoly today.  First, how would I know if the product I have is "premium".  The paint is really thick and took as much water to reduce to spraying viscosity as part B.  That being said, I think the results are good for my first try.  
    I started with some covers and the ailerons and found that the time to zero transfer was quite short.  So much so, that I didn't think I can spray both the top and bottom of a wing without losing tackiness.  I sprayed the bottom only and I think I was right since when I got to the end, the beginning was just right for more.
    Temperature is mid 60's and quite dry since it is cold out.  I did wet down the floor, but that dried up before I was finished spraying.  My final pass was a bit light so I didn't get full gloss in some areas (started with the bottom).  
    Is there anything that will slow the drying?  I am using a Finish Line 3 with a 1.3 tip @ 23psi.  When I get to the top, how do I finish the paint on top without overspraying the bottom.  I was thinking of masking off the bottom and using scotchbrite where the Ekopoly will overlap.  Any pointers will save experimentation.
Posted: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 3:22 PM Quote
If you purchased the paint recently and the bottle says EkoPoly Premium on the label then that's what you have. Yes it takes just a little more water than catalyst to get the proper viscosity with the glossy EkoPoly Premium. If you follow the instructions on the lid of the can and measure by weight it's going to be pretty close. If you feel like you want to thin it out a little more then just add a tiny bit more water. There is no "one size fits all" answer when reducing paint. If you do not get a full wet look on the final coat you are dancing with the possibility of getting orange peel in your finish. If your tack coat has an orange peel texture then you also are running the risk of orange peel in the final finish.  Take your time to make sure the surface does not have any dry spots as you spray the final coat of paint.  Checking tack with the back of your bare skin knuckle you should feel about a post-it note level of tackiness.  It will hold that tackiness for at least 10 min under normal conditions.  If you feel that you lost the tack then before you spray out the final wet coat you can spray a fast light dry tack coat then come right back with a wet coat.

When dealing with a wing and painting both sides at the same time on a rotisserie you need to plan a head just a little and make sure you do not blow any over spray across the previously painted first side that is still wet. If you paint the top then flip it over to paint the bottom do not bring the paint gun past the edge. Gun control is important. This is why when using a rotisserie you make sure to wrap the paint over the LE and TE of the surface first before spraying out the main body of the part. That way when you flip it over you already have paint on the edges so there is no need to bring the paint gun past the centerline of the LE and TE.

If you want you can paint one side, let it dry for a day, mask off the previously pained area and shoot the other side. When doing that you may choose to put a  trim stripe down the LE. Always pull your masking tape before the paint starts to dry. Try to remove it 45-60 min after the final coat of paint.

Always paint towards the exhaust fan. Think about airflow in the booth and where the overspray is going.