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Adjustments for weather

Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 9:04 AM Quote
Hi,
   I will be starting to use the Ekofill and then the Ekopoly on a set of wings next week.  I was wondering what adjustments have to be made due to varying weather conditions with the Ekopoly.  The space I will be painting in has a heater if needed, but weather this time of year can vary greatly.  Is the tackiness of the paint the deciding factor of when to spray the next coat?
Al
Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 12:32 PM Quote
ALWAYS SPRAY TEST PANELS BEFORE PAINTING AIRPLANE PARTS


The recommended temp range for application is 60-85 deg F and anywhere from 25-75 % humidity

If you need to heat the area for painting any thing BUT a kerosene heater can be used. A heater that leaves a sooty exhaust in the air will mess up a paint job.

Try to have the paint at or above 60 deg before mixing. Ideally you will store the paint at around 70 deg room temps. In cooler weather it is not necessary to chill the water in the fridge.

Above 80 deg it is highly advisable to chill the water before use to increase your pot life.

If you are going to paint in 50 deg weather make sure that the paint was stored and mixed above 60 deg before going into the paint booth to spray. You will have to over extend your tack times so be patient in super cold weather. Avoid it as much as you can.

The key to choosing when to apply the next coat is TOTALY based based on the tackiness of the previous coat and how heavy of a coat you previously applied. Our directions are only a guide for application using the Finish Line III paint gun. Always use your paint gun manufactures recommend air pressure and you should experiment to find out what fluid settings give you the best performance.

If you sprayed out a heavy coat and it's glossy and shiny looking then let it tack up a little longer before applying the next coat.

Do Not spray the next coat when you first hit the proper tack but wait and keep checking and spray the next coat before you start to loose that tack. If you go to soon you risk Solvent Entrapment or Solvent Popping in your finish. Going Too heavy Too fast causes trouble.  

when it's colder and damper in your paint booth then you must extend your tack times a bit longer.

You are looking for a post-it note to fly paper type tackiness with little to no paint transfer. Always use a bare knuckle to check do not check when wearing gloves.

IF you have lost your tack you can spray a light FOG coat to get the stickiness back before moving on to your wet coat

In cooler temps you will find it adds a few more minutes to your tack times and over all total cure time

I have found that using the fog coat method of applying the initial color to a surface gives the best results for total color saturation without the risk of runs, sags, or blotchy tiger striped paint jobs. By applying a more dry initial fog coats building the color saturation you never have a thick enough layer of paint to screw anything up with. It also covers the surface better with out pulling away from the high spots or settling out in large flat areas. The goal is to build up your color saturation so that the surface has almost a flat satin sheen and the texture of about 1000 grit sand paper. Never let your fog coats go on fast enough so that you get a wet gloss look. Applying the initial base color saturation this way allows for the greatest application range in temp and humidity since you are actually semi drying the coat as you spray keeping your gun moving fast with very tight overlaps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iVgF6YNKIg&list=UUrlV5GMsw4S6zTn9bzjFwkA&index=2&feature=plcp

A final wet coat is always the same regardless of how you built your initial color/tack coats. Do not expect your final wet coat to give you the full color saturation. You should have that already with your tack coats. The final wet coat is only to give you the wet film thickness required to flow out nicely and provide the full gloss to the paint job. If your final wet coat does not flow out to a wet look about 2-3 seconds behind the gun then you are not putting enough paint on the surface. Do not slow down or move in closer to add more paint, that will screw things up and cause runs. Instead to increase the amount of paint tighten up your over laps and make more passes over the area you are spraying. Doing this will help to even out a paint job and it also helps to slightly dry the "COAT" of paint as you apply it. If you are trying to spray a 3 mil wet film and you do it by moving slowly in one pass you will get runs. If you build a 3 mil wet film by making 10 fast passes over the same area you are much less likely to get a run because you are slightly drying the film as you build to the required thickness to get the awesome wet look you want.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P-Cm1hD6_k&feature=BFa&list=UUrlV5GMsw4S6zTn9bzjFwkA


ALWAYS SPRAY TEST PANELS BEFORE PAINTING AIRPLANE PARTS



If something goes bad wash it off before it dries using EkoClean, Scotch-Brite, and water

If the first thing you paint does not come out right then don't keep painting. Figure out what needs to change and fix it. I have had customers that call me and say well this went wrong so I painted the next part and had trouble again and then I did this one and so on. Don't learn how to paint on airplane parts. Practice on stuff you can throw away.

Also try to get all your painting done in as short a period as possible. Wait to paint all the parts together. Do not paint an elevator today, a rudder 2 weeks from now, then a wing 2 months later... If you spread your painting out over a year you will not have a very consistent paint job.

Jason
Posted: Friday, November 14, 2014 8:37 AM Quote
Hi Jason,
    Thanks for the info.  After changing my filters, I have been getting consistently good results.  The weather issue which my original schedule had as a non issue is becoming a big issue.  The last set of parts I painted came out very good even though the temperature in my hangar was dropping fast as I was applying the EPP.  When I was finished spraying I suspect we were down to 45-50F.
    Do you have a real number as to how cold is too cold?  I need about two more sessions to be complete.  The trim can wait till the spring!
    It looks like I may have enough EPP to finish, but I don't want to find out that I was just short, so I will be purchasing an additional quart.  Should I mix the new quart with what is left of the gallon I started with (1.5 qt), or use it separately?  Color is Cub Yellow.
Thanks,
Al
Posted: Saturday, November 22, 2014 8:54 PM Quote
Avoid painting below 55 deg F if possible

Try to keep a 10 deg temp/dewpoint spread