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Frosty Finish

Posted: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 11:25 PM Quote
Jason, Wow! Thanks for the research you did. That was above and beyond! I did not wet the floor or use a drop cloth. Should I have done that? I guess I was concerned about extra humidity from a wet floor. I did wet the floor earlier but let it dry.  I did shut the fans down early, but I've done nothing different than when I painted my wings last year, and all 4 panels look beautiful, even after being stored in a cold hangar all winter. Well, I'm going to do what I did with my empennage parts that blushed last fall. We have a cooler dry weekend coming up. I will be scuffing with scotch brite, fogging and hitting it again with a color coat. That worked like a charm before, so hopefully it will work again. I think you pointed out in one of your videos that the color coat after fogging does not need to be as heavy. Is that right?

Do you see any problem with spraying Ekopoly over some self etching primer from a rattle can? I have a few small parts  where the color match won't be as critical. I'd like to experiment with that. It would ease my workload a little down the road.

I hope all of this isn't being seen as critical to your product. I really hope that sharing my experience will be educational for others who might have similar issues. I've really learned a lot.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Posted: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:14 AM Quote
Yes you can put EkoPoly over other primers but with yellow you should always put it over a white primer since yellow is a translucent color.

If you decide to repaint any surface that already has good color on it all you need is a light fog coat to give the surface some tack before you come back and put a wet coat on.

Posted: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 12:29 AM Quote
Jason, I finally got around to scuffing the entire fuselage with scotchbite and re-painted a fog coat and a color coat with Ekopoly Premium. It fixed the blush/frosty look but I ended up with some big areas of orange peel. UGH! I think I know what happened. The gauge on my air adjusting valve was apparently broken. When I finished I saw that at "0" psi it was reading around 14. I didn't catch it, so when I thought I was spraying at the correct pressure, I was probably spraying way at a too-low pressure. I sensed that my pattern was too small, but I just didn't catch it and kept going. I could have been shooting at 10-12 psi and not atomizing the paint well.  It was certainly not a fault of the product, just the painter! Now, I have 7 or 8 coats of Ekopoly built up, including the fog coats, I don't like the idea of laying on more paint. I can see that stuff cracking in the prop blast! However, I'm open to suggestions. Is there a way to fix the orange peel like sanding and polishing? Should I sand or scuff and re-paint? Should I stop and just live with it? By the way, I have replaced the adjusting valve and gauge. Thanks!
Posted: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 8:56 PM Quote
Lack of air will absolutely cause orange peel. The air control valve on the bottom of the paint gun is not a regulator it's just a needle valve. It's very important that the hose to the gun is charged to about 75lbs and it stays there. If you have issues with the air pressure dropping then you will not get a consistent paint job.

no problem with 7-8 coats of paint, it's still a thinner coat of paint than some of the other systems. Should not have any issues with flexibility.  

You can cut and buff the orange peel out if you want. Start by dry sanding with 320-600 then wet sand with 2000 grit. Next you use a power buffer with Mequires 2.0 heavy cut and a heavy foam buffing pad. Finish up with Meguires mirror glaze and a fine foam buffing pad. Then wax with what ever you like. I prefer the Megquires Ultimate wax

Posted: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 11:09 PM Quote
Jason, thanks for your guidance and advice. I have some time to think about this as I don't have access to the paint booth at the moment. I may try cutting and buffing over a small area on the fuselage belly to see how it works. Will there be any problems using that technique over an open fabric area? Fuselage turtle deck is a solid surface as are the cockpit turtle decks and baggage door. The rest is fabric. Is there a buffer you recommend?
Posted: Thursday, June 6, 2013 12:44 PM Quote
There are a ton of websites that talk about buffing paint. Porter Cable seems to make a very popular buffer. Also the Lake Country pads seem to be one of the most popular. Polishing is something that take a little time to learn. I would read as much as you can. It's not that hard but there is a little technique to doing it right. I am no expert